Grenada
the spice of the Caribbean
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                             Mosaic on church floor

The Seventh Week
  Sept. 25 - Oct. 1, 2006


On Tuesday, Heather took her first trip into St. George's, thanks to a little help from the most wonderful Josh: bearer of coveted kitchen appliances and tour guide extraordinaire.  We went with the purpose of purchasing fish at the fish market.  Fresh (not salted or frozen) fish mysteriously cannot be purchased at the supermarket; one must make a special trip to the market or know a fisherman to get fresh fish.  As I do not yet know any fishermen, I went to the fish market.  Naturally, as the day was quite warm, we strolled around town before making the fish purchase and rushing it home to refrigeration.

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St. George's was an amazing adventure.  It is full of tiny shops.  Some shops claim, by virtue of signs outside, to be vendors of various goods, such as kitchenware or clothing or, say, appliances.  Some even carry what they advertise.  Some advertise that they are "variety stores."  In reality, every store is a variety store.  You're lucky if they actually carry the items they advertise to have.  One "kitchenware" shop carried clothing but no kitchenware.  Nick's donut shop occasionally has the odd donut, but mostly it's a sandwich shop.  If you are shopping for any item in particular, you need to enter the shop and ask for it specifically, as you shall never find it on your own as each one is crammed full of stuff

Many stores seem like time capsules.  They carry goods that feel like leftovers from times gone by.  For example, old fashioned can openers are very common here.  Evidently, somewhere in the world today, there exists a factory that manufactures plastic handed versions of these pre-crank relics (a sharp hook with a handle sort of thing - I've only ever seen these babies in black and white war movies.)  Darn it, for good reason, too, because they are not user friendly.  It was odd not to know how such a simple tool operated, and the small, random, jagged holes I produced with it were downright comical.  Where had I gone wrong?  Isn't this the sort of thing every parent teaches their child?  I felt like a caveperson transported to modern times: I'm supposed to get food out of that using what?

Other stores have clearly modern goods, but the shops themselves are so very antiquated that I felt nevertheless transported to another time.  From the walls to the floors to the sparse furnishings, the methods of display, and "changing rooms" to the smells...you begin to understand how very basic the premise of buying and selling can be.  Most stores, for example, sell the very same variety of goods in their variety stores that aren't really variety stores.  They would be better suited to be called random merchandise stores.  They sell things that all come from the same distributor and the same ship.  So, you go from one store to the next, seeing much (but not all) the same thing, and comparing prices along the way.  Each shop carries just enough different goods that you need to visit many different shops to locate what you seek, thus ensuring that each shop with get enough purchases.  Because once you find the item you seek, you buy the other things you could use as well - the stuff that is found in every shop.  Despite the humble nature of most of the shops themselves, and the appearance of a somewhat random presentation of goods, each shopkeep tends to their goods as a master gardener might tend to a prized patch of roses.  Should a careless shopper, such as myself, so much as move an item on display such that it is rotated or just a bit askew, the shopkeep will promptly remedy the anomaly to its ideal display situation.  The fabric shop, for example, had a limited supply of fabric, including small pieces folded in piles, but each bolt was neatly wound and perfectly aligned with the others around it, and each pile of smaller pieces was neatly folded and stacked.
 
I, as it happened, purchased a magical, crank-style can opener.  A miracle of engineering.  And for one third the price in Grand Anse ($29.99EC!)  I also purchased a small rug for the washroom at about a quarter the price in Grand Anse.  SUCCESS!


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St. George's

The city of St. George's sits on a rather steep hill.  At the top of the hill, overlooking the city and the sea is what's left of an amazing church.  Well, two amazing churches actually.  The first one, an Anglican church, was allegedly built in the 1700s, and Hurricane Ivan destroyed its roof two years ago.  The church itself is amazing, plus you can actually go into the church, despite the destruction.  The roof is totally gone, with about one quarter of it being a pile of loosely connected materials.  Most of the windows remain intact, however, and the front altars are in beautiful condition.  The floors, as seen in the photo at the top of the page, are amazing, yet crumbling due to their exposure to the elements.  The church, just like some of the shops nearby, seems to stand still in time.  The church piano was turned into a pile of loosely connected matchsticks - and it sits there today just as it must have two years ago just after the wind died down.

The second church, just down the road, is a Catholic church, which also lost its roof.  That one, however was not open and I did not take photos of it.  The Anglican church was such an amazing experience that I took bunches of photos!

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The front door and clock tower

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Looking through the front door.

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Looking forward, toward the altar.

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What's left of the church piano.

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The front altar.

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Looking toward the back of the church.

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The back of the church and what's left of the roof and supports.

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Looking out the front door over the city and the sea.


At the open air fish market, you can browse among the various vendors' wares, which are arranged around a central location and sold by women.  You choose the fishes and pay for them.  Then, if you'd like them to be cut or cleaned, you carry your bag of fish to the cleaners and they will cut or clean them however you like.  I chose what I think was a red snapper, and all of the women, as well as Josh, were plenty amused at how I hemmed and hawed over which creature to choose and how bad I felt about choosing an animal to eat ... and I definitely chose to have mine cleaned!  Oh, no, that's Ok ... you can keep the head!

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Poor Jerry: soon to be dinner.

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The young hero who filleted poor Jerry.

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The fish cleaners.  Jerry's on the close end.

On Sunday, our landlady Christine Antoine and her sister Michelle Antoine took us around the island to see some of the sights of this beautiful country.  Because we have midterms coming up, there likely will not be a lot to report next week ... so I will cheat a bit and post the exploration pictures in next week's edition!

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